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Q - Cathy of Green Bay, WI
I purchased a Dwarf Zebra Grass from a mail order catalogue. It recently arrived and is very tiny!! It is in a 2.25" pot, and I question whether it will survive outside in a Wisconsin winter. I am wondering this: could I grow the grass in a planter indoors until spring? This is my first venture into gardening in general, and I know nothing about ornamental grasses, so I have no idea if this is feasible or not. Your opinion would be greatly appreciated.
A – Melinda Myers
I would heel in the plant for winter. Trying to keep it growing indoors will be difficult. Simply find a protected spot near the house, garage or other location. Avoid the drier vent or other sources of artificial heat that can cause freezing and thawing. Sink the pot into the soil to insulate the roots. Once the ground freezes cover the plant with evergreen boughs (from a discarded Christmas tree) or straw. You may want to mark the location so it is easy to find in spring. The Miscanthus grasses (Zebra grass being one of these) are late to emerge in spring – so don’t be alarmed if this plant shows no signs of life until after most other plants have sprouted.
Q - June
Why is the bark coming off my old honeysuckle bush? A – Melinda Myers
As honeysuckle stems grow and age the bark become somewhat shreddy in appearance. In fact this is a great id clue for this plant in winter. These plants tend to be pest tolerant so it is doubtful this is a pest problem. In fact their hardy nature and ability to reseed has made many species invasive in many parts of the country. Regular renewal pruning will help keep the plant looking good. Remove no more than 1/3 of the older canes to ground level. Repeat for the next few years. After that occasionally remove an older stem to the ground to keep the plant looking good.
Q - Sharon of Oshkosh, WI
I just purchased a Butterfly Bush (tree) and I put it on the south side of the house. I was wondering if I needed to do anything special with it for winter?
Also, I planted a Honeysuckle vine by my trellis this May and its doing fantastic but it is not flowering?? Am I doing something wrong? A – Melinda Myers
Your butterflybush will need a bit of extra care Sharon. These plants are not reliably top hardy in Wisconsin. As northern gardeners have discovered the plant usually dies back to about 4 to 6 inches above the ground. Not a problem when grown like a shrub, but a big problem when trained like a tree. I would give your butterfly bush added protection for the winter. Consider placing a cylinder of hardware cloth around the plant. Sink the bottom of the fencing into the ground to keep out rabbits and voles. Once the ground freezes fill the container with evergreen bough or straw to help insulate the plant for winter. If by chance you left it in a pot – move the plant into an unheated garage for the winter. Set it on a board and surround it with anything that can provide added insulation for the roots. Water whenever the soil is thawed and dry. As for the honeysuckle – It is not unusual for newly planted trees, shrubs and perennial vines to expend all their energy on producing roots instead of flowers. This is really best for the plant in the long run, though we impatient gardeners can’t wait for the blooms. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers that encourage leaf and stem growth while discouraging flowering. Most garden soils are high to excessive in phosphorous and potassium so avoid products high in these nutrients unless a soil test indicates these are needed. Less is usually best as research has found it is better to wait one year after planting to fertilize trees, shrubs and vines.
Q - Tom Agerton of Gastonia, NC
Hi Melinda, I would like to know how to rid my lawn of wild violets. They seem to take over in areas where other plants have died, or underneath other plants. A – Melinda Myers
Violets, as you discovered Tom, are difficult to control. Researchers have found that several fall applications (applied about 6 weeks apart) of a broadleaf weedkiller containing Triclopyr are effective. Weedkillers containing this ingredient are no longer being produced. Once these are not available you may need to wipe Roundup or Finale or another total vegetation killer on the leaves. Keep in mind anything these products touch, including your grass, can be killed.
Q -Diana of Waukesha WI
I need help in finding out how to diagnose and treat what appears to be a disease or pest problem in my landscape planting. I have three creeping cotoneasters in a small Asian garden in my front yard. One of the three cotoneasters is showing quite a bit of die-back. Several branches have crispy, reddish brown leaves that appear to be dying. At this point the other two plants do not seem to be affected. If this one dies it will ruin my landscape if I replace it with a new much smaller cotoneaster. A – Melinda Myers
The most common problem with cotoneasters is mites. These pests suck plant juices causing the leaves to look speckled and in severe cases brown and fall off. I saw a lot of mite damage this past summer due to the hot dry weather early in the season. The other problem is fireblight a disease caused by a bacteria. This sounds more like what is happening to your plant. Look for sunken or discolored areas, called cankers, on the dying stems. Prune 6 inches behind the canker into healthy tissue. Treat tools with a 70% alcohol or 10% bleach solution between cuts. The remaining plant may look ugly but if you were able to remove all the diseased areas it can recover. Plus all the stored energy in the roots will help the plants quickly regain it original size. Reduce the risk of future infections by pruning during the dormant season, disinfecting tools between cuts and do not over fertilize. Excess and high nitrogen fertilizers promote lush growth that is more susceptible to the disease.
If the plant does die it is best not to replace it, at least immediately with another fireblight susceptible plant. If you feel lucky you could replace the dead plant with a larger shrub (more costly) to minimize the discrepancy in size. Or consider replacing it with another low growing spreader. I have seen the cranberry cotoneaster mixed with a small spreading juniper to create a beautiful combination.
Q - Brenda of Wisconsin
We have a property up north (sandy soil) and have a hard time with being successful with our lawn. My husband added a layer of brown dirt to the soil and planted grass seed. It did take somewhat but it is not thick.
I continue planting more seed in the barren areas. I feel somewhat frustrated that I'm not getting the seed to germinate like it should. We do water consistently. What would you recommend for the type of grass seed (that would be good for our type of soil) to plant and where would I purchase it from?
I have noticed that along the highway systems that there is grass planted. And I know that the highway department does not maintain those areas such as home owners do. So, I'm sure that the type of grass that they use is strong and needs little maintenance. What is that grass type and where would I purchase it from? Our situation is somewhat the same due our lake home is not our primary residence and we are there every other weekend. A – Melinda Myers
This is a common problem for many in your situation. Water is critical when establishing grass. The soil surrounding the grass seed or sod roots needs to be kept moist until the plants develop deep roots that are drought tolerant. Consider using a grass seed that contains varieties red and creeping fescues and perennial ryegrass. These tend to be drought tolerant and easier to establish in your situation. A relatively new introduction is rhizomatous tall fescue (rtf). This grass is drought and heat tolerant, quickly fills in bare spots and looks like a bluegrass lawn. A fescue mix should be available at most garden centers and stores that carry a wide range of grass seed. You may need to purchase the rtf online. A search for RTF or rhizomatous tall fescue grass seed will provide several sources.
Q - Lori R. of Hartland, WI
My perennial garden has been overrun with a thistle like weed which invasively spreads. Weed killers do not help. There is an immense root system going. I'm ready to kill the entire garden. Flowers and all. I can barely stand to look at the space, much less care for it. Help! A – Melinda Myers
I can understand your frustration Lori. AS you have found the extensive root system makes it difficult to kill the thistles and the large amount of seed each plant produces adds new plants every year. You may want to start over next spring. Dig out your flowers and pot them up or heel them into another part of the landscape. Then get to work killing those weeds.
Several applications of Roundup, Finale or other total vegetation killer will eventually kill these weeds. You may want to treat the weeds throughout the summer and replant the garden in late summer or early fall when you know the weeds are under control. Use clear plastic if you prefer not to use chemicals. Kansas State University found good weed control in gardens covered with clear plastic for 6 to 8 weeks during the hottest part of the growing season. Start by removing the flowers and edging the bed. Then cover the garden with clear plastic anchored on all sides. After 8 weeks the existing thistles and some of the seeds should be killed. Then replant.
Mulch the garden and spot treat any thistles as they appear. The past few hot dry summers have helped thistles get control over many gardens.
Q -
This summer I bought a healthy-looking bleeding heart plant with several lovely flowers. It is planted on the south side of our house. The original flowers matured and dropped off. I keep watering it and now I have a bigger bush with good-looking green leaves, but no flowers. What am I doing wrong? A – Melinda Myers
You did nothing wrong. Continue to water and wait to fertilize. Too much fertilizer can encourage foliage and discourage flowers. Common bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis) blooms in spring. After that you have foliage that usually dies back in mid summer. Fringed bleeding heart (Dicentra eximia) puts on its biggest flower display in late spring and early summer then continues to hold its leaves and bloom sporadically throughout the season. New plantings of these and other perennials often cease blooming the first season they move into the garden. The plant sends the energy to the roots instead of the flowers. This helps get the plant established but is a bit disappointing for us.
Q - Marlene of Jefferson, WI
Good Morning Melinda. We put in 6 boxwoods this year and now would like to know how to care for them over winter. We live in the country, they are on the west side of the house, there is a woods across the road but we still get some wind. I understand boxwoods are to be protected from the wind for the first couple of years. So what do we do, put burlap around them, how close do you put the burlap near them, around all sides or could it just be say 3 sides. The 4th side is by the house which is about 4 ft away. Would appreciate any help you can give me on this. Sure do miss listening to your program on Sat. on WTMJ 620, listened to it for years. Thanks for your help. A – Melinda Myers
Marlene, I miss chatting with all of you on Saturdays but thanks for visiting my website so we can keep in touch. Now for the boxwoods. You are right, they do best if sheltered from the winter wind (typically coming from the northwest) and winter sun from the south. A windbreak placed near the plants to cut the wind is all you need. Stretch burlap or another material on stakes next to the boxwoods or wrap the plants in burlap or another breathable fabric. A piece of lattice or other decorative material that cuts the wind will also work. Or use a discarded Christmas tree placed on the windward side to provide shelter for the birds and your boxwoods. Protect the south facing side if the plants will receive direct sun in the winter. Some varieties like Winter Green and Green Velvet were bred to hold their green leaves despite the harsh winter weather. No matter what protection you provide be sure the plants are well watered before the ground freezes.
Q -
I'm working on relandscaping my home and want to line the property with burning bushes. Is Fall an opportune time to plant burning bushes or should I wait until Spring? If I would purchase the plants in the next few weeks, should I keep them indoors until Spring and then plant them. A – Melinda Myers
Fall is great time for planting. The soil is warmer for faster root development, the air is cooler for less water loss and the plants have time to develop a larger root system before the heat and drought of summer. You may want to consider The cooler temperatures and additional time to establish before the heat of summer.You can keep planting until the ground freezes.
Q - Bob Stueber of Muskego, WI
When is the best time to prune shrubs? A – Melinda Myers
Prune with a reason in mind. Get out the saw and hand pruners only if you need to control the size, remove dead branches, and shape the plant or increase flowering and fruiting. Dead and damaged branches can be removed when they are discovered. Do severe pruning in late winter or early spring to minimize the stress on the plants and achieve the best results. Wait until right after flowering to prune spring blooming shrubs like lilac and forsythia. These have already set their blooms for next spring so dormant pruning eliminates the spring flowers. You can prune summer blooming shrubs throughout the dormant season but I prefer late winter through early spring before growth begins. Early spring pruning allows you to enjoy the winter interest the plants provide. Plus the worst of the winter weather has passed so you can correct any damage while doing more routine pruning. In addition the wounds close quickly as new growth begins in spring. Avoid fall pruning of evergreens. The tender needles exposed after pruning will be more subject to drying that results in browning from winter winds and sun. So remove those dead branches and put away your pruning tools until after the holiday season.
Q - Dwight Seger of Rapid River, MI
I have dug up my Gladiolus, what is the right way to prepare and store them for the winter? A – Melinda Myers
Glads require a bit different care than your cannas, caladiums and tuberous begonias. Once dug the corms (bulb-like structures) need to cure for two weeks in a warm dry location. This process allows the corm to seal the surface reducing the risk of rot. Gently remove any soil and foliage. The small offsets called cormels can be saved and grown for an additional season or two to reach flowering size or discarded. Store the corms uncovered in an open flat or mesh bag in a cool, as close to 40 degrees as possible, dark location.
Q -
What is the best way to save calla lily bulbs in southern Wisconsin? A – Melinda Myers
Cure callas for 1 to 2 days in a warm dry location. Then pack them in peat moss in a flat, bucket or other container. Move to a cool, 50 degree, dark location. Always label these and other bulbs place in storage to take the guesswork out of next springs planting. Check stored bulbs throughout the winter discarding any that begin to rot. If the bulbs begin to sprout you need to find a cool location. If growth continues you may be starting these bulbs indoors sooner than planned.
Q - Colleen of Milwaukee, WI
How do I prepare my Knockout Rose for winter? I've been told to cut them back then cover with a rose cone, but I've also been told they are winter hardy and just some mulch will do. I just planted these this summer. A – Melinda Myers
Knockout roses were bred for their hardiness, pest resistance and easy care. Mine has survived quite a few winters in an open location with no winter protection. I know some gardeners have lost their plants the last two winters. The key to survival is a healthy plant going into winter, minimal pruning and patience in the spring. A healthy plant, no matter what kind, is better able to survive the winter. Leave the plant stand over winter for increased hardiness. If you feel the need to add a bit more protection encircle the plant with hardware cloth sunk several inches into the ground. This holds the mulch in place and keeps out the critters. Once the ground freezes cover the plants with evergreen boughs or straw. Remove the mulch when spring temperatures start hovering near freezing. Then wait to see what sprouts. Prune off any dead wood, lightly shape and your plant is on its way to getting established. Knockout roses have survived without protection in colder parts of Wisconsin. It often dies to the ground but returns and blooms all summer. Gardeners in colder areas may want to minimize the dieback with some winter protection.
Q - Barb of Brookfield, WI
We have had a purple plum in our yard for 8 years planted in a bed that faces south and gets full sun. We have noticed that is has some sort of "wilt disease" where the leaves wilt and dry up and the branch dies. We have already had to cut off a couple of the lower branches as the leaves and branch died. We have another shrub facing the north in the back and it is fine. What is this and how do we stop it from spreading. A – Melinda Myers
There may be a couple of things happening with your purple plum. One is a common pest of plums and the most likely culprit, a borer. These small insects feed inside the stems and eats the inner bark of the stems. This destroys the vascular system that moves water and nutrients between the roots and leaves. Pruning off infected branches is the best solution. Some gardeners will stick a wire in the hole and try to kill the borer inside. Tedious but may be worthwhile if you plant has a single trunk rather than multiple suckering stems. Spray control is difficult since timing is critical. You must kill the insect before it enters the stem. There a few soil applied systemic insecticides on the market. Check the label to make sure they can be used on your ornamental plum for borer control. A fungal disease called gummosis can cause similar symptoms. Branches die back and a smelly gummy substance oozes out of cracks, crevices and wounds. Prune out infected stems and disinfect tools between cuts. Help your plant fend off the disease with proper care. Water the plant thoroughly when needed and mulch the soil around the plant with several inches of wood chips to conserve moisture, moderate temperature extremes, and keep weeds at bay.
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