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Q - Audra
My tomatoes are ripening but they are rotten on the bottom half....what an I do organically , if anything ? ....The plant is in a container( half whiskey barrel )...didn't want to plant in the ground as we live n the desert and the soil here is not good...I asked at Home Depot andLowes but no one there seems to know............thanks for any help you can give................
A – Melinda Myers
The problem is blossom end rot. It is a common problem on tomatoes caused by a lack of calcium. But don’t rush out to buy a new fertilizer. Some soils do lack this essential nutrient but in most cases the deficiency results from a moisture imbalance. Usually just the first set of fruit, yes the ones w have waited for all year, are affected. The plants eventually adjust to their environment and the problem disappears. You can cut off the black end and eat the ripe unblemished portion of the fruit. Reduce the risk of blossom end rot with some minor adjustments in care. Stake and tower your tomatoes at the time of planting and avoid cultivation near the root zone. This reduces root damage that can lead to moisture stress and blossom end rot. Water thoroughly and often enough to keep the soil evenly moist. Check your containers at least once a day and water whenever the top few inches are just slightly moist. Check more often if the pot is small or the weather is hot. Mulch both in-ground and container gardens to help keep the soil evenly moist. I have not seen calcium deficiencies with most potting mixes. Many include slow release fertilizers while others allow you to add your own. Check the potting mix bag for details. If your potting mix doesn’t contain a season long slow release fertilizer you will need to do a bit of fertilizing. The frequent watering and fact the soil less mixes do not hold on to nutrients as long as our native soils means you will need to do a bit more fertilizing than when gardening in ground.
Q - Terri of Franksville, WI
 This year, I have a hosta that has grown and is all white. I was wondering if this is common or if this is unique and something I should propagate? A – Melinda Myers
Mutations and sports can result in changes in leaf and flower color, form or the plant’s growth habit. Some changes continue on to the next generation. IN some cases the changes only get passed through to the next generation if the mutated portion is asexually, such as cuttings or tissue culture, propagated. They are often not stable and the plant loses the unique feature over time. Totally white leaved plants are a rarity since plants need the green chlorophyll to produce energy and survive. I think this is worth some space in your garden and a little time watching, seeing and dividing the unique sport to see if it continues to grow and thrive. After all, nature’s little surprises are one of the added benefits of gardening.
Q - Mark of Greenfield, WI
I just have a question - if I could. How can I either keep weeds out of my garden or minimize their growth? I've heard many ideas over the years - but they don't seem to work too well. Is there a product that I should buy? Techniques to use? Please help me....
A – Melinda Myers
When weeds outnumber your desirable plants it is time to take a close look at the growing conditions. Improving the soil, providing needed water and growing plants in the sunlight they prefer results in healthy plants that can out compete the weeds. Now look at the surrounding area. Lots of weeds n nearby yards and fields provide an enormous source of seed for future infestation. Work with neighbors to keep weed populations in the area under control. Here are a couple things that may help you gain on the weeds. Prepare the soil prior to planting. Cover the planting bed with clear plastic for several weeks to warm the soil and encourage many of the weed seeds to sprout. Lightly cultivate to kill the weed seedlings without bringing more seeds to the surface. Once your garden is planted, apply a layer of shredded leaves, herbicide-free grass clippings, evergreen needles, or other organic material. Pull weeds as they appear and before they can set seed adding to the future weed population.
Q - George of Oakville, CT
How hard is it to grow heuchera? A – Melinda Myers
The small scale and variety found in the many cultivars of coral bells (Heuchera) make it perfect for small and large scale gardeners. Most Heuchera prefer partial shade. I find the green leaved forms tolerant of full sun and even full shade. The purple-leaved and some of the newer light green varieties often scorch in the hot afternoon sun. Keep the soil slightly moist for best results, though established plants can tolerate drier soils. Try using a mixture of cultivars to form a tapestry under your favorite shade tree. Or use them in rock gardens, at the edge of perennial beds or in the mixed border. Many varieties have beautiful bell shaped flowers that dance above the foliage in late spring through early summer and sporadically throughout the season. The leaves will persist through a mild winter though watch for frost heaving that can occur when soil alternately freezes and thaws throughout the winter. Just gently tamp or reset any frost heaved plants back in the ground as soon as they are discovered. Give one or two Heuchera a try this season. I bet you will soon be adding a few more.
Q - Mary Coward of Hartsville, South Carolina
We have two Labs, male and female. Recently we allowed them in our small garden area; We had to stop that. We now have a problem where they urinated and some of our plants and bushes are now dead or have discoloration. What can we do and what can we do to prevent them from doing this or any stray that might get into this small garden area?
A – Melinda Myers
Gardening with pets, yours and neighborhood strays, can be challenging. Pet urine is a source of nitrogen. Too much of it, just like over fertilization, can cause damage or death to plants. Rinse off frequented plants and thoroughly water the soil in their favorite spots to urinate. This will dilute the urine and reduce the damage to the plants. Many gardeners mulch an area and leave it plant-free and train their dogs to use this space instead of their garden. I have three unruly housecats so I know this may not be practical. Fencing will work to keep smaller animals out of the garden. Scare tactics like motion activated sprinklers, noise makes and other devices may also help. Or try one of the commercial dog repellents on the market. Make sure to read and follow all directions carefully. You may need to use a combination of techniques and vary tactics to gain the results you want.
Q - Mark of West Allis, WI
We have a variety of daffodils in our yard. Most usually bloom, but I'm wondering why some stems hold the flowers up well, while others droop and drag on the ground making it hard to appreciate the flowers. Is it a fertilization problem or something else? These are mature plants. A – Melinda Myers
Some daffodil varieties develop stronger flower stems and outward facing flowers. A look in the catalogues and on-line will often find this listed as a desirable trait of certain varieties. Hot weather as bulbs sprout and grow in spring, extreme cold, snow loads when plants are in full blooms and excess shade can cause long spindly flower stems and the problem you describe. We can’t change the weather but you may be able to give these shade tolerant bulbs a bit sunnier spot or cooler growing location. And next fall look for varieties with showier blooms and sturdier flower stems.
Q - Martin of Germantown, WI
Melinda, what is the best time to power rake my lawn? I've been bagging my clippings for the last two years, but I still have a fairly thick layer of thatch left over from before I was bagging. I'm planning on putting down anti-crabgrass spring fertilizer which recommends not raking the lawn for several months. What's your opinion?
A – Melinda Myers
Reduce thatch problems with a change in your lawn care strategies. Rapid and excessive growth caused by over fertilization and over watering NOT grass clippings are the real causes of thatch. Consider using a slow release nitrogen fertilizer and applying the majority of your fertilizer in fall. Leave short grass clippings on the lawn. They break down quickly adding water, nutrients and organic matter to the soil. Power raking, also called dethatching, is used to remove thatch but is very hard on your lawn. It should only be done when the lawn is actively growing in spring and early fall and only if needed. A half inch of thatch or less is actually beneficial. It helps conserve moisture and cushions the soil from foot and equipment traffic that can lead to soil compaction. More than one half inch should be managed. Consider core aeration. It is less stressful on the lawn. Removing cores of soil opens up the thatch layer allowing water and fertilizer to reach the grass roots. Though less stressful, you will get the best results from core aerating in spring or fall.
Q - Jenny of Hartford, WI
Can I dig up bulbs in the spring without harming them so that I can replant them in the fall? I am trying to move some flower gardens and plant grass where they used to be, but I missed quite a few bulbs when I took the plants out.
A – Melinda Myers
For best results wait until the leaves start to yellow. This allows the leaves to produce the energy the bulbs need for a good flower show next year. You can plant the bulbs in their new location right away. This way they can spend the summer tucked into the soil like your other bulbs. Transplanting right away also reduces the risk you will misplace the bulbs or forget to plant them in fall. Otherwise store the bulbs in a cool dark location for the summer and plant in fall when you normally plant hardy bulbs.
Q - Marjorie of Mequon, WI
Melinda, I am a huge fan of your broadcasts. We are considering using rubber mulch this year, but don't know the pros and cons. Please enlighten us. Thank you.
A – Melinda Myers
I prefer organic mulches like shredded leaves, evergreen needles, herbicide-free grass clippings and woodchips or shredded bark. These help conserve moisture, reduce weeds, moderate fluctuations in soil temperatures, and improve the soil as they break down. Since most of us garden in less-than-ideal soil anything we can do to improve it is worth the time and effort. Rubber mulch will help conserve moisture and reduce weeds but it will not improve the soil. Some gardeners have reported problems with high soil temperatures under the rubber mulch harming plants. I prefer to limit rubber mulch to play areas, pathways, around structures or near building where plants are not being grown.
Q - Irene Henry of Sauk Centre, MN
My orchids suddenly dried up. I can't figure out if they had too much water or not enough? 2nd question. My biennial foxglove bloomed last fall so I was wondering if I can expect blooms this year or will they be done?
A – Melinda Myers
First - the orchids. Too much or not enough water can cause any plant to dry up and die. If your orchids are growing in a bark, peat moss and vermiculite or perlite mix (typical orchid mix) it is less likely you are over watering.
If you still have the plant, carefully slide it out of the container. Dry brown roots usually indicate a lack of water. Slimy discolored roots can result from over watering or root rot disease. Diagnosing this problem might help you be more successful with future gardening endeavors. For best results grow orchids in a bright location and keep the potting mix moist. I like to group my orchids and other houseplants together to increase the humidity around the plants. This helps tropical plants survive the low humidity found in most homes.
Now for the foxgloves: Biennials produce leaves their first season and then flower and die the next. Many biennials like foxglove and hollyhocks will act like perennials if you allow some of the seeds to mature on the plants. The seeds drop to the ground and form a rosette of leaves their first season. They will flower, set seed and die the following year. Many gardeners plant seeds or transplants two consecutive seasons to insure yearly bloom.
Q - Kevin and family of Muskego, WI
We are looking for a fast growing hedge to provide privacy between our yard and the busy road in front of our home. Someone suggested willows, what do you think? Any other suggestions? A – Melinda Myers
Here are a few plants and factors to consider. Willows are fast growing and can require a lot of pruning to keep them in a small space. The weeping willow and other large specimens have invasive roots. The Blue Artic Willow would be a better choice. It is fast growing, has attractive blue-green leaves, forms a dense mass about 8 to 10 feet tall and tolerates our lousy soils.
A mix of small trees and shrubs will give you a long lasting barrier. A mixed border provides a variety of textures, colors and pest resistance. Upright junipers can tolerate hot dry conditions. Arborvitae are favorite plants for screening. They prefer moist well-drained soils and can tolerate some shade. Add in a few deciduous shrubs (maybe the willow) but also our native Grey dogwood. It forms a dense thicket, produces berries the birds love and has a nice purple-red fall color and creamy flowers in spring. Just make sure it has plenty of room to grow. Blue muffin viburnum resists the viburnum borer, has creamy flowers in spring, blue fruit the birds love, red fall color and forms a twiggy mass that can help with privacy.
Q - Ron of West Bend, WI
We live in a pine forest near West Bend. They are jack pines. The trees are now very mature and about 40-50' high and are planted in rows. We don't get a lot of sun but we do get some. I have a very nice lawn around my house and a large perennial garden in the back yard, in front of the woods. I would like to plant something that would give us a block from our neighbors on the East side of our home. We have some hydrangeas there now. However pretty, they are not tall enough to give privacy.
The spot is along my drive, outside from my garage. The problem is that is where I have to blow most of my snow, so I need something that can survive in the winter. Living with a lot of pines, although beautiful, we don't really want more of them. Something that would give us some bloom would be nice. We were thinking of lilacs, but were not sure if they would get enough sun and were hardy enough to blow snow on them. What would you recommend?
A – Melinda Myers
Lilacs need at least 6 hours of sun to thrive and flower. Look for mildew resistant varieties like Miss Kim and Palabin. Lilacs will tolerate the salt that may be a problem near the driveway. Arrowwood viburnum is an upright shrub with creamy flowers in spring, blue fruit the birds love and great fall color. It tolerates sun and part shade and so far appears to be resistant to viburnum borer. Chokeberry is another possibility. The white flowers are followed by red or black fruit and beautiful fall color. Golden Glory Corneliancherry dogwood is a large upright shrub with yellow blooms, red fruit the birds like and reddish-purple fall color. Hedge cotoneaster is another large shrub with great fall color that can also provide screening. These are just a few possibilities.
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