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Q - Michael McQuillen of Shorewood, WI
: Looking out my front window yesterday I noticed that rabbits had recently done considerable damage to my oak leaf hydrangeas chewing the branches down to approximately a universal one-foot length. Question #1: will they likely survive? Question #2: last year we planted a serviceberry tree, lacecap hydrangea, rose of sharon and blue muffin arrowwood viburnum (the last three based on your website recommendations - thank you) do I have to worry about the rabbits also feasting on these? Up to this point they have left them alone. Thanks.
A – Melinda Myers
Your oak leaf hydrangea will survive. Just check the base of the plants as the snow melts. Voles may also be enjoying a tasty meal in the landscape. If the plant is eaten to the ground it should send up new growth but won’t flower this season. Oak leaf and lace cap hydrangeas bloom on growth arising from old wood. Even without flowers the beautiful bark, lovely leaves and great fall color make oak leaf hydrangea a nice addition to the landscape. Keep an eye on your other plants – the rabbits and voles have been known to eat these as well. And with cold temperatures and snow cover they may expand their feeding area yet this winter. Consider spraying the plants with an animal repellent and adding clanging pans or other scare tactics to protect your landscape.
Q - Miquel of Milwaukee, WI
I have a Japanesse Peony Tree. The flowers are 8" and silky(single & white)My question: Are Japanese Peony Trees suppose to die back? Mine die back to the ground every year. I thought it was suppose to be a peony tree. Am I mistaken? A – Melinda Myers
The name, tree peony, is a little misleading. Tree peonies do develop some woody stems but grow more like a shrub than a tree. In cold regions like ours the stems often dieback significantly or to ground level. A little winter protection will help insulate the plant and preserve the woody base. Place a cylinder of hardware cloth around the plants in fall. Sink the bottom few inches into the soil to keep out hungry rodents and rabbits. Once the ground freezes fill the cylinder with evergreen branches. Remove the mulch and fencing in spring as temperatures begin hovering near freezing. Or continue with your current management. The plant may be a bit smaller but it sounds just as beautiful.
Q - Greg Miheli of New Castle, PA
Here in NW Pennsylvania I was told by a Christmas Tree farmer that the secret to beautiful pine trees is to "spray in May; Prune in June." What kind of spray do you think he is talking about? I am familiar with pruning. A – Melinda Myers
Farmers and nursery professionals are always on the look out for insects and diseases that could devastate their crops. As home gardeners we should also watch for pests but can use less aggressive, sometimes more labor intensive, but more environmentally friendly control options. We can handpick the few insects that attack our landscape trees or prune off disease infested stems. When problems occur, proper identification of the pest and its impact on the plants overall health and longevity will help you determine if treatment is needed. Review control options and their impact on you, your plants and the environment before proceeding. My guess is the Christmas tree grower may be spraying for European pine sawfly that feeds on the pine needles. As a home gardener you can easily control this pest without pesticides. Start watching for the worm-like insects in May. The sawflies feed in colonies and do a little dance when disturbed. If discovered smash them with a glove clad hand or prune out the infested branch. This is usually enough to control them. Proper watering and a 2 to 3 layer of mulch will help keep your evergreens healthy, and beautiful.
Q - Sandra of Montesano, WA
I have a weeping cherry tree that only a few of the branches hang down. If I cut the straight branches off will the rest of the branches start weing? Thanks! A – Melinda Myers
Many weeping cherries are grafted plants. The weeping cherry (Prunus subhirtella 'Pendula') is grafted onto the trunk of a non weeping cherry to create a straight stemmed tree topped with weeping branches. Remove any straight stems that develop on the trunk below the graft (swollen portion). Remove water sprouts, those stems that grow straight to the sky from other more horizontal branches. Then leave the weeping branches be. Heavy pruning can eliminate the weeping growth habit. Thin over crowded and crossing branches. Otherwise let the horizontal branches develop into their weeping form.
Q - Toria of Illinois
Thanks Melinda for offering this service. I have a Giant Polypodium Fern that bought in CA 34 years ago. I'm not sure of the species but it's large! I have always had it as a potted plant first outside in CA and now indoors in IL where I have lived since 1975. Several years ago, it developed a dark rust like browning to the ends of the fronds. I have transplanted it several times since owning it, but not in the past 5 years. We also changed our water system over to a softener but I try and give it 'well water' most of the time. It sends up new fronds only to have them turn brown on the ends and then brown the entire leaf. I treasure this plant as it is very unusual here in the Midwest. We have become old friends over the years and I would hate to loose it. Normally, it's frond spread is 6 feet across! Now, even the length is shorter. Do you have any suggestions I might try? Could it be that I need to transplant it again into a larger pot? The 'rabbit feet' fronds are climbing over the edge! Thank you for any suggestions you might have. A green thumb friend, Toria A – Melinda Myers
You have done some great work in evaluating potential causes of the problem. Continue the process by carefully sliding the plant out of its container. Though ferns like to be a bit pot bound growing in too cramped quarters can result in stunted growth and the symptoms you described. Move the plant to a slightly larger container if needed. Be sure to loosen any circling roots before replanting. Salt used in water softeners can also cause browning and death of plant parts. Continue to use well water or collect rain water, melted snow or water from your dehumidifier. These will eliminate the risk of salt burn. And lastly make sure the light conditions have not changed. Often as trees mature, awnings are installed or other features are added indoors or out they can impact the light reaching our houseplants. Though most ferns are shade tolerant outdoors they prefer a brightly lit location inside our homes.
Q - Joyce
We are having a terrible problem with moles and last year in one of the Birds and Blooms Magazines there was a tip by spraying a mixture of caster oil, either washing up liquid or baby shampoo which we have already used and find it workable but now we can't find the recipe and in desperation I hope you can help us solve this problem. A – Melinda Myers
I am not surprised you had good results with the castor oil. Michigan State University found the product Mole Med (castor bean oil is the active ingredient) to be effective. Your mole control uses castor oil as the control agent and the soap acts as a wetting agent to help the oil and water mix for better application I prefer to use and recommend products formulated for the intended purpose. These products have the recommended rates needed for control and based on research. So you may want to try the commercial product MoleMed.
Q - Richard of New Berlin, WI
Melinda, I am interested in growing bamboo. I have looked at a couple of sights on the web and there are some types of bamboo that are winter hardy. Has anyone you know tried bamboo in the Milwaukee area. I live in New Berlin. A – Melinda Myers
I have met several gardeners who are successfully growing bamboo in the north. The Chicago Botanic Garden evaluated bamboos for hardiness, performance and invasiveness several years ago. The results of this study are reported in their Plant Evaluation Notes #3 Bamboo performance and available on their website at www.chicagobotanic.org . As you review their finding you will see that the hardy bamboos have 100% rhizome survival but the stems (culms) partially or completely die back to the ground each winter. In addition you may want to check out yellow groove bamboo (Phyllostachys aureosulcata) and Umbrella bamboo (Fragesia murielae). The yellow groove bamboo has yellow markings on and some kinks in the culms. Booth are clump forming and rated hardy in zone 5.
Q - Kae
Can you spread firepit ashes on your garden? Is it good for the soil? A – Melinda Myers
It depends on your soil. I feel the benefits usually do not outweigh the disadvantages for most garden situations. Wood ash contains potassium, phosphate, boron and other elements and raises the pH of the soil. Do not add wood ash if your soil is alkaline (high pH) or contains adequate to excessive amounts of any of these nutrients. I find many urban and highly cultivated soils are high to excessive in phosphorous and potassium. Take a soil test before incorporating wood ash into the garden. If you decide to use ash as a soil amendment, keep it away from seedlings and plant roots. Contact with wood ash can burn the roots. Never use coal ash or large amounts of wood ash. Both can be toxic to your plants.
Q - Mary Kay
We have some "trees" in our yard that I thought I heard you classify as a weed. I don't remember the name. It has black berries on it and spreads like crazy and takes over (my lilacs are history). What is this pest called? I've just started to cut down and dig up the smaller trees. I look forward to clear cutting the rest of my yard.....Thank you for your help! A – Melinda Myers
You are correct. These shrubs (often the size of small trees) are invasive plants known as buckthorn. Their tough nature, narrow growth habit and hardiness gained them a spot in our landscapes years ago. Unfortunately, their seedy nature and aggressiveness has made them a weed in natural areas and home landscapes. Continue to dig up small saplings. Larger plants can be cut and stumps treated with glyphosate (total vegetation) or other herbicides labeled for this purpose. Be sure to read and follow all label directions carefully to avoid damaging nearby desirable plants. Visit the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources website (http://www.dnr.wisconsin.gov/invasives) for pictures and control options for this and other invasive plants.
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