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Question – Judy of Germantown: Is this a live chat? Possibly Podcast? Where can I find information on this? Answer – Melinda Myers: Hello Judy, I am sitting at my computer answering questions as they arrive and posting them to my website. You can also submit questions to my website anytime during the week and watch for them to be answered and posted on Saturdays at 9am. Old questions will be archived for you to view at a later time
Question - June of West Allis: I had to dig up my daffodils and put them in a basket with dirt until I can replant elsewhere now in garage is that ok? Do I need to leave garage door open during the day?
Answer – Melinda Myers: I assume the bulbs are dormant and your garage is not heated. In this case leave them in the garage. A bit of extra insulation prevents the soil from dropping too far below freezing (that can turn your bulbs to mush) and warming up too soon resulting in early sprouting. The recent below zero weather may have damaged them. When the bulbs begin to grow you can move them indoors or out to enjoy. If the bulbs have already started growing I would move them to a cool sunny window. With sufficient outdoor chilling you should have indoor blooms in about one month. Grow on as a houseplant and then move the bulbs to their permanent location outdoors once the damage of frost has passed. You may not get blossoms from the forced bulbs next year but they should give you beautiful blooms the following spring and for years to come.
Question - Priscilla: We have a burning bush in front of our house (east side) which has grown way too large. A couple of years ago, we pruned it in spring to shorten it, but the new growth for the rest of that year had very small, pale leaves and looked quite unsightly. Fortunately the next year it looked fine. Now it has grown as large or larger (height and width) and we need to do something. Any advice you could give us about the timing and methods for pruning a burning bush would be greatly appreciated. Answer – Melinda Myers: As you discovered, Priscilla, burning bushes do not like severe pruning. For a long term low maintenance solution you may want to remove or move this plant to a larger space. Replace it with a smaller plant that will fit the space when matures. Select a plant that fits the landscape design and is suited to the growing conditions. Or keep pruning. Try to remove no more than ¼ to 1/3 the total volume. Severe pruning stimulates lots of growth and you end up back where you began. Make cuts above a healthy bud facing outward, where branches meet or back to the main stem. Removing small amounts of growth each year will be less stressful on the plant and less work and frustration for you. Late winter or early spring before growth begins is a great time to prune this and other shrubs that do not put on a big floral display in spring.
Question -Kathy of Superior: I recently purchased a small potted coffee plant. It contains around 6 small stems, or possibly 6 individual plants. Should I transplant each stem separately, or can I grow it as one plant? I understand that coffee trees grow quite large if not pruned. Answer - Melinda Myers: Fortunately you have time before your coffee tree grows too large to manage. Now is a good time to decide how you want to train your plant. Kathy, gently scratch the soil surface to see if the plant was pruned at ground level and sprouted the six stems. If not you have several small plants that can be grown in one pot or divided so you have one plant per pot. Either method will work. Grow the plant in a sunny window, water thoroughly and often enough to keep the soil slightly moist.
Question -Jeanne of West Bend Hi Melinda, You mentioned "My Favorite" Mum at the Daylily Society of SE Wisconsin meeting in January. Where can I purchase this particular mum? Thank you. Answer - Melinda Myers: My Favorite Mum, as you know Jeanne, was bred by the University of Minnesota and is hardy to zone 3. Green Bay Botanical Garden often sells these as a fundraiser in the fall. I would ask around garden centers and farmer markets. In the meantime I will do the same and post the information on my website.
Question - Esther Dear Melinda, can you tell me when is it the right time and if it can be done to cut or trim Russian sage bushes? Or do they keep growing on the old growth? I also wish to transplant some so is spring a good time to do it? Thanks for your help. Answer - Melinda Myers Cut back Russian Sage to 4 to 6 inches above the ground in late March. Older plants and those growing in rich moist soil or shade can become floppy. If this is the case cut the plants back a second time in mid June. This time prune back halfway. A bit or early spring and early summer pruning Esther will keep your plant in line. When adding new Russian sage consider using one of the newer cultivars like Little Spire. It is more compact and less likely to flop.
Question - Jack Hi Melinda I loved your morning show on WTMJ sorry to hear it was canceled. My question is I have four fruit trees and would like to know when is the right time to prune them? They are about 4 to 6 years old Answer Melinda Myers: Thanks for the kind words Jack – I miss chatting with you and all the other gardeners. But I am working on some new and exciting ways for us to keep in touch. As for your fruit trees; Late winter is a good time to prune. Start by determining the training system you would like to use. I would recommend a central leader system. Look at the existing branches. Select 5 to 7 main branches with wide crotch angles (angle between branch and trunk) that are spaced 18 inches apart and spiral up the trunk. The lowest branch should be 24 to 36” above the ground. Remove the other major branches. This is your framework that you will maintain through the life of the tree. For more detailed information see page 89 of my Month-by-Month Gardening in Wisconsin book.
Question - Judy of Germantown I am trying to over winter my hibiscus by putting it in the basement and lightly watering on occasion. Is there anything else that I should do? When can I prune it? Answer Melinda Myers: I have had good luck using this method. The key to success Judy is keeping the plant alive without promoting excess growth. I would place the plant in a window or under artificial light. The low light and cool temperatures help slow down growth. Water thoroughly but only when the soil is slightly dry. Do not fertilize until the plant is in a warm sunny spot indoors or has been moved outdoors for the summer. Once the plant is actively growing you can use a dilute solution of any flowering plant fertilizer.
Question - June of West Allis I had to dig up my daffodils and put them in a basket with dirt until I can replant elsewhere now in garage is that ok? Do I need to leave garage door open during the day? Answer - Melinda Myers: I assume the bulbs are dormant and your garage is not heated. In this case leave them in the garage. A bit of extra insulation prevents the soil from dropping too far below freezing (that can turn your bulbs to mush) and warming up too soon resulting in early sprouting. The recent below zero weather may have damaged them. When the bulbs begin to grow you can move them indoors or out to enjoy. If the bulbs have already started growing I would move them to a cool sunny window. With sufficient outdoor chilling you should have indoor blooms in about one month. Grow on as a houseplant and then move the bulbs to their permanent location outdoors once the damage of frost has passed. You may not get blossoms from the forced bulbs next year but they should
Question Judy of Wauwatosa Good Morning Melinda, We have a 4 year old Spike that we over winter in the house. This year the Spike has sent up a flower stalk from the center of the plant. The flowers are VERY strong smelling (stinky). We have never had this happen before, is this unusual? Answer Melinda Myers: Pat yourself on the back Judy. This is very unusual. Spike also called draceana, botanically a Cordyline, does flower in its native environment. Tropicals and houseplants occasionally bloom indoors if the growing conditions are great or they are under stress. I would take a picture of this wonderful event for your garden journal. If the perfume is a bit strong you may want to remove the flowers. If you do take a picture and would not mind sending it to me (via e-mail or to PO Box 370331, Milwaukee, WI 532237-0331) I would love to share it with other gardeners.
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