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Q - Lisa K.
Each summer my neighbor’s lilies produce these little black ball type things. Are they seeds or what?
A – Melinda Myers
These little black growths, called bulbils, are really aerial bulbs. They contain all the genetic material needed to start a new plant. They form between the leaf and stem on tiger lilies and several other hardy lilies. In nature, these bulbils drop to the ground and eventually grow into a flowering bulb. You can harvest the plump black bulbils when they can easily be pulled from the plant. Place them in a protected spot in the garden. Plant them in a furrow just like you would peas. In several years you will have bulbs to plant into the garden or share with friends.
Q - D. Barron of Guttenberg, IA
Are bush string beans self-pollinating? I have covered my beans with a mesh netting to prevent the deer from eating them, thus also preventing bees, etc. from getting to the flowers. Will I get Beans?
A – Melinda Myers
No need to worry. Beans, peas and tomatoes are self-pollinating. Their flowers have all the needed reproductive parts and can accept their own pollen for the development of their edible fruits. You may notice bees and other insects visiting these plants’ flowers, collecting nectar and spreading pollen as they visit other flowering plants in the landscape. Self just like insect and wind pollinated vegetables may suffer from poor pollination and fertilization due to adverse weather or poor growing conditions. So go ahead, leave the netting in place so you not the deet will enjoy a bountiful harvest this season.
Q - Marge P. of Milwaukee, WI
Wondering when the best time is to separate daylilies. The plants are over three years old and seem overcrowded.
A – Melinda Myers
Regular division every 3 to 5 years will make the job of digging and dividing these fleshy rooted plants easier for you. It also helps keep repeat blooming daylilies flowering throughout the season. Wait for the worst of the hot weather to pass before dividing these and spring flowering perennials. Divisions made in late summer through early fall will have the mild autumn weather to root and recover.
Q - Unknown of Milwaukee, WI
I read one of your columns where you recommended people wait until early spring to divide their rhubarb. Can’t you do it anytime?
A – Melinda Myers
I like to give advice that will give you the best chance of success with the least amount of effort. Dividing plants in early spring as growth begins is the least stressful for the plant and usually less work for you. I have moved rhubarb plants in mid summer. The large leaves lose lots of moisture during hot summer days, stressing the plants and requiring more watering from me. Fall transplanting doesn’t always give the plants time to recover before winter sets in.
Q - Michele of Greenfield, WI
My grandmother has a hibiscus in her yard and is wondering how to care for it in terms of cutting it back in the fall or spring? I am sorry, I do not know much more about the plant other than it is a hibiscus and I believe it is a shrub. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
A – Melinda Myers
The perennial hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus coccineus and Hibiscus moscheutos) dieback to the ground each winter. They send up new growth from the ground. They are slow to emerge, once as late as early July, so be patient. Let these plants stand for the winter to increase winter hardiness. Cut the perennial hibiscus back in late winter or early spring. Leave 4 to 6 inches of stem intact to mark its location and protect this late to emerge plant from accidental digging. The Rose of Sharon is also a hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus). This is a shrub that blooms in late summer. Prune these in late winter or early spring before growth begins. Remove any dead branches. Cut dead tips back to a healthy side branch or above a bud. Limit additional pruning to what is needed to shape or control the plant’s size.
Q - Jim of New Berlin, WI
We bought a spindle tree 3-4 yrs ago. When we bought it the tree had orange fruit on it. Last year it had some petite little flowers and we thought for sure that by fall we would have the attractive fruit but to no avail. The tree is situated on the north-west corner of the garage and actually gets good sunlight and water. Any ideas why we are not getting the fruit? Last year we did spray for some black tiny worms.
A – Melinda Myers
It often takes several years for plants to get established and start flowering and fruiting. Avoid high nitrogen and excessive fertilization that can promote lots of green growth and prevent bloom. In addition, avoid using insecticides during bloom. This plant like so many is pollinated by insects and it is easy to accidentally kill the all important pollinators.
Q - Denise C. of Streamwood, IL
I have beautiful Siberian squill that bloom in my wooded area behind my home. I’m happy to see them spread every year. They first appeared two years ago. I usually fertilize the area with weed and feed to keep the dandelions, thistles out and have nice shade ground covers, hostas and shade flowers thriving. Will weed and feed kill the Squill or effect prevent the new seeds of this year from growing? I want to create a lush bed of these blue flowers without other weeds taking over. Thank you for your advice :-)
A – Melinda Myers
The term weed and feed is usually used for lawn products designed to fertilize the grass and kill any existing broadleaf plant. This would include hosta, groundcovers and other non-grass plants. Are you using a pre-emergent like Preen combined with a fertilizer? These products are used in gardens and designed to prevent seeds from germinating. This includes desirable seeds of garden and native plants. Squills spread by both seeds and bulblets. Preen does list use of their product for several bulbs but does not include squills on their website. Check the label of the product you are using for a list of tolerant plants and any precautions that need to be taken. Most companies have a website or 800 phone number you can call for further information.
Q - Tanya P. of Denver, PA
What Shrubs can be planted near Black Walnut trees? I have a tree line between me and my neighbors and have tried some plants and they keep dying. People have told me it is because of the walnut trees.
A – Melinda Myers
As you discovered the leaves, fruit, roots and all parts of the black walnut contain a toxic substance called juglone. When the roots of sensitive plants come in contact with the juglone they wilt, brown and die. Some plants appear to be tolerant of this substance. Unfortunately most of the information is just observational and very limited. Daphne, euonymus, forsythia, juniper, rose of Sharon, arborvitae and most viburnums seem to tolerate black walnuts. Avoid red chokeberry, hydrangea, mountain laurel, privet, potentilla, rhododendrons and azaleas, blackberries, lilacs, yews, doublefile viburnum and most roses. As for the rest of the shrubs it will be trial and error. If you decide to experiment, plant one or two and wait several years to make sure the shrub roots have come in contract with the juglone and are truly tolerant before planting more.
Q - Kristin of Oconomowoc, WI
Melinda, I am noticing an increasing problem with creeping charlie in my garden beds this year. I had noticed it the past 2 years, but only in approx. 1' sq ft patches. It now is already covering my Hen-n-chicks, and moving over the tops of my Stella D'oro lillies. My gardens are all edged and we use a commercial company for lawn application, so it has not entered my grass. Most of my research into how to get rid of it focuses on the lawn. What do you suggest for controlling it in my garden beds? I have noticed it in 3 physically separate gardens, all of them in full sun. Thank-you.
A – Melinda Myers
Repeatedly digging or pulling is the only non chemical control for this weed. Make sure no parts of the plant remain or drop back into the garden as they can root and start a new plant. You can wipe a total vegetation killer such as Roundup or Finale on the creeping Charlie leaves. It may take several applications to kill the existing plants and several years to rid the garden of any seedlings that eventually sprout. Or try one of natural products that use vinegar, plant oils and soaps to burn off the tops of weeds. You will need several applications to kill the top and roots of the plant. Protect your perennials as these can also burn off the tops of any good plants they touch. Read and follow label directions carefully when using any product in your landscape and garden.
Q - Ruth of Napoleon, MN
I want to know how to harvest and care for yucca seeds. When do you pick them, when do you plant them (spring/fall)...how do you plant them?
I have a Yucca that has flowered the last two years; it is currently loaded with seed pods and I don't have any idea of what to do next.
A – Melinda Myers
Collect the seeds just as the seed pod is starting to crack open. Don’t wait too long or you may lose the seeds when the pod fully opens. Remove the seeds from the pods, allow them to dry, and store in a cool dark location for the winter. Start the seeds indoors when you start your other transplants or wait until the danger of frost has passed and soil has warmed. They germinate best in warm soil (75 degrees). It takes several weeks for the seeds to germinate. Plant more seeds than the number of plants you want. If the majority of seeds sprout, you will have lots of seedlings to share.
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