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Q - Jean Haase of Milwaukee, WI
I have 3 variegated Ficus ‘Sylvie’ plants. Each of them has some leaves that have brown spots on them. Some are in the middle of the leaf and some are on the edges. They look like they are dirt and could be washed off but they go through to the other side. At first I thought it might be scale but it isn't crusty. I have used a couple different plant sprays but it doesn't seem to help.
A – Melinda Myers
This variegated cultivar of the more common rubber tree is quite a beauty. The brown spots you describe sound like a fungal leaf spot disease. Start by evaluating the growing conditions. The low light of winter often means plant growth slows and you need to water less often. Those keeping their homes warm my still be watering their plants frequently. In either case let the soil moisture not the calendar be your guide. Water plants thoroughly so the excess runs out the bottom. I place pebbles in the saucer of my large plants. The excess water collects in the pebbles, the plant sits on the pebbles above the water and I do not have to pour off the excess. Better for the plant and less work for me. Wait until the soil is crumbly and only slightly moist before watering again. I found adjusting how and how often you water is usually sufficient to clear up the problem. If this does not work then you may need to repot, trimming away any rotten roots and replanting the ficus in a container (with drainage holes) only slightly larger than the rootball. Or try to find a fungicide labeled for use on houseplant. And as always read and follow label directions carefully.
Q - Lori Kessenich of New Berlin, WI
My jasmine tree is recently covered in clear sticky sap. Yikes! What is it and what can I do? A – Melinda Myers
Honeydew is the clear sticky substance on the leaves of your jasmine tree. It is a good clue that aphids, mites, white fly, mealy bugs or scale are feeding on your plant. These insects suck plant juices and secrete the excess as honeydew. Check other houseplants to make sure they are not infested. Give insect ridden plants a shower with warm water. Then apply insecticidal soap to the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves and stems. This will kill aphids, mites and the immature stages of the others. Repeat applications will be needed. Remove any hard shell-like structures, these are the adult scale insects, found on the leaves and stems. Add a yellow sticky trap if you notice white fly-like insects around the plants. It won’t eliminate white flies but will help reduce their populations. With persistence you should be able to control the insects, eliminate the honeydew and improve the health of your plants.
Q - Mary of Milwaukee, WI
With our unseasonably warm winter, how are we to protect bulbs and perennials? I've always heard we should not mulch (with evergreen boughs, for example) until the ground was frozen. Now I'm seeing reports that gardeners should be mulching bulbs to prevent them from blooming. How are we to deal with this global warming winter? A – Melinda Myers
Great questions on the minds of many gardeners. You are right – we should wait to apply winter mulch to plants after the ground freezes. Spreading a layer of straw or evergreen boughs over the warm soil delays dormancy and can encourage disease. It also provides a great habitat for rabbits and rodents that like to feed on our landscape plants. Snow is the best mulch. We should be grateful every time nature mulches the landscape in snow, even though it means we need to shovel our walks. So keep your mulch handy and once the snow is gone and the ground freezes you can put it in place. Your efforts will not be wasted since much of the damage occurs in late winter. As the soil freezes and thaws over the next few months it can push plants and bulbs right out of the ground. For now all we can do is wait and see what happens. AS spring arrives we may see a reduction in bloom or need to reposition frost heaved plants back into the soil. Fortunately many of our plants are able to tolerate the rigors of our harsh weather. And look at every dead plant as an opportunity to try something new this season.
Q - Robert Jones of St. Marys, Ohio
Our winter this year has been extremely mild this year. I have perennials which are starting to pop out of the ground. I know that they will probably return next year. The question that I have is about my butterfly bush. I don't trim this bush back until the early spring. The problem is, it has had new leaves come and wilt and drop off about 3 times this winter. It now has another batch of new leaves on. This can't be good and I'm wondering if I should do anything to help it survive this winter? A – Melinda Myers
This winter is proving to be a challenge. As northern gardeners we expect the top of our butterfly bushes to dieback over winter. The energy used for the plant to send out leaves several times throughout this warm winter can weaken the roots and may even lead to death of the plant. Apply a few evergreen boughs over the base of the plant when cold weather and frozen ground returns. This will reduce the risk of another early sprouting. Once spring arrives be patient. Most butterfly bushes, mine included, do not sprout until early or mid June. Recently mine did not show signs of life until July 4th. But once growth began the plant quickly reached full size and produced an abundance of blooms.
Q - Lori N. of Texas
I have a young pine tree that has turned an orange-brown color. Does that mean it is dead or could the roots still be saved? There is a another tree planted not far from it, it is doing fine! A – Melinda Myers
The amount and pattern of damage can help us diagnose the problem. When yellow or brown needles appear from top to bottom just along the trunk it is seasonal needle drop. This normal occurrence is the plant’s way of shedding old needles. If one or several individual branches discolor it is often a fungal disease attacking the needles or an insect feeding inside the branch tips. When the top of the plant seems to discolor at once it is usually a problem with the roots. Take a close look at the growing tips. If the buds are soft and plump the tree may be able to produce and support new growth. All the orange-brown needles will eventually drop and will not be replaced. If the tree survives you will be waiting and hoping for years that the tree’s health and appearance will improve. Consider removing the sick tree and adding a new pine in a different location in case the problem is in the soil. Contact a certified arborist for a definitive diagnosis.
Q - Mike M.
I have a question about the very tall red calla lilies. Can they stay in the ground over winter or not? If so, what care do I provide? OK!...3 ?s!!! How is it pronounced? Like Kay? or Cal? Thanking you in advance for your time. A – Melinda Myers
Let’s start with the easy one first. The name is usually pronounced cal not kay la but that can vary, just like common words, across the country. Now let’s discuss winter care. Calla lilies are hardy in zones 9 and 10. Some gardeners have reported plants surviving in colder regions when planted in mud below the freeze line of the water. I have tried overwintering mine outdoors in a protected zone 5 with no success. Those gardening in zones 8 and colder can overwinter plants in one of two ways. Bring actively growing plants indoors before the fall frost and grow them like a houseplant for winter. Or dig and store the rhizomes (underground swollen structure) in a cool dark space. Lift the rhizomes in fall after the foliage is killed by a light freeze. Remove the soil and foliage and allow the rhizome to dry for a couple of days. Pack in peat moss and store in a cool dark location for the winter. Get a jump start on the growing season by planting the rhizomes indoors in February or March. Gradually introduce the plants to the garden after the danger of frost has passed. No worries if the rhizomes are still in the garden and you live in an area where they are not hardy. Just call it an experiment and try a new variety this season. And be sure to make a note on your calendar or garden journal to dig and move them indoors for next winter.
Q - Dave of WI
I have moles in my lawn. I think they are attracted by a bird feeder about fifteen feet from the house. They seem to come from timbers around flower beds next to the house. I have tried mole & gopher pellets but they are still around. Can you help? A – Melinda Myers
The hibernating moles are often blamed for the damage caused by voles. These mice-like rodents are busy all winter feeding on seeds, fleshy roots of iris, daylilies and hostas, or the bark of trees and shrubs. Their activity wears trails into the grass. Many gardeners choose to let nature manage these pests. Harsh weather and predators like owls, hawks and fox help control the population. Wait for the grass to fill in or overseed damaged lawn areas in the spring. Use a fence of hardware cloth, sunk several inches into the ground, around trees and shrubs. This will keep the hungry voles away from the tasty bark of young trees and shrubs. Watch for damage to perennials. Dig, divide and discard damaged roots in spring. Poisonous baits are available but can harm pets, other wildlife and children when not used properly.
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