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Q - Miquel of Milwaukee, WI
Does the Milorganite work as a rabbit repellent? Where can I buy it?
A – Melinda Myers
Thanks for the question Miquel. Milorganite is a slow release low nitrogen fertilizer. The Milwaukee Metro Sewerage District is currently in the process of registering this product as a deer repellent. For years gardeners have been reporting an animal repelling quality as a side benefit to using this fertilizer. Milorganite is available at many garden centers and nurseries across the country
Q - Sherri Knutson of Grasston, MN
I just received a white potted mum as a gift. I have no idea how to take care of it. It is too late to plant it outside in Minnesota. How can I help it survive the winter in the house? Thanks. Sherry A – Melinda Myers
Most holiday gift mums are best suited for indoor enjoyment and then a trip to the compost pile. Some gardeners like to flex their gardening muscles and try to grow them as outdoor plants. Let’s take a quick look at mums in general. Most mums, hardy garden and florist mums, are Chrysanthemum x morifolium. They set flower under long nights and short days. The garden mums varieties set bloom under longer days (late August and Sept) than the florist mums. If grown in natural conditions, the florist mums usually do not flower until November when winter has settled in to Minnesota and most other northern states. Spring planting gives you the greatest chance of survival if planting any type of mum outdoors. Some avid gardeners do move florist mums outside for the summer and bring them inside just before frost to enjoy the bloom inside. An easier solution is to grow the hardier mums bred in your home state. Formerly known as My Favorite Mum they are now being marketed as maxi mums. These plants provide hundreds of blooms, stay nice and compact, and require no winter protection even in zone 3.
Q - Hopeful Gardener
Yesterday (Nov 20) my husband was given a stalk of Night Blooming Cereus for rooting. I have read several sites but none tell me where to cut the stalk for rooting. The stem is almost three feet long with a "Y" branch. One side of the "Y" is one foot long with a new shoot just off the tip and the other branch is two feet long. Do I cut only at the branch joints or can I divide up the three and two feet sections as well? I mentioned the date because it seems that this particular plant is very sensitive to specific times of the year. Any additional suggestions for propagating the cuttings would also be greatly appreciated. Thank you. A – Melinda Myers
As you guessed timing will influence your chance of success. Spring is the best time to start cacti from seed or cuttings. Since you have the cuttings you might as well give it a shot. Cut your cereus (Hylocereus undatus) into several smaller pieces. Cut the side shoots where they form the Y. Keep the main stem and try to root it as well. Allow the cut ends to callus over by storing the cuttings in a warm dry place for up to 2 weeks. Once the ends seal closed you can stick the cuttings (bottom end down) in a well drained cactus mix. Consider using a clay pot with drainage holes so the soil dries faster reducing the risk of rot. Place the potted cuttings in a cool bright location and wait for roots to form. Water only as often as you would a mature cactus. Avoid over watering that leads to root rot and death of the plant. In a few months you should have three new rooted cereus plants.
Q - Lynne Baylock of Rural Hall, NC
I have a trumpet vine that I have had for several years, but it has never bloomed. Why is this? A – Melinda Myers
Lynne this is probably the biggest complaint I hear about the trumpet vine. Too much nitrogen and lack of maturity are the most common causes. This rampant growing vine is a luxury feeder. Its roots seek out and absorb any nitrogen they can find. This results in lots of leaves and stems and no flowers. So limit the use of nitrogen fertilizer near these plants. Do not use blossom booster fertilizers, those high in phosphorous, unless your soil test indicates a deficiency. Most garden and urban soils are high to excessive in this nutrient. A soil test can save you money and improve plant growth by telling you exactly what type and how much fertilizer your plants need. Young trumpet vines often need several years to become established and start blooming. It may take up to seven years for some plants to flower. Keep pruning in late winter or early spring as needed to control the growth. Your patience will be rewarded with lots of beautiful blooms and perhaps a few hummingbirds feeding on the flowers.
Q -Barbara of Lutz, FL
My daughter has a problem growing grass in her front yard. It is complete shade. We have hot, humid summers with temps in the 90s for about three or more months. She has seeded several times and nothing seems to grow. It is also an area that the children play in. Any suggestions for her?
The homeowner association is giving her flack and yet they have no suggestions for her. She is a single mother and finances are low. Is there something besides grass that would grown and withstand children running over it? Thanks for any suggestions you can give us. A – Melinda Myers
Shade, foot traffic and a tight budget can be overwhelming. A low maintenance shade tolerant groundcover may provide the green the neighborhood association requires. Adding some mulched areas for play and steppers for directing traffic through the yard may give the kids the freedom they desire. A trip to a local nursery may reveal the perfect plants for the situation. Check out Dichondra or creeping fig (Ficus pumila), ground hugging plants that tolerate some light foot traffic. Mondo grass and lily turf could be used around trees and steppers to provide greenery where the kids don’t play. Encourage your daughter to contact the local County Extension office or Garden club. Many gardeners are happy to share their expertise and plants with fellow gardeners in need.
Q - Sherian of Portland, Oregon
I have a huge pampas grass clump and it sends up shoots every summer but never looks fluffy and white. It turns brown and looks like seed pods. My neighbor has one just two houses from me and his is gorgeous and fluffy. They are planted on same side of our homes and are watered the same amount. We have mostly sand here. Please tell me how I can get mine to look white and fluffy. Thank you, Sherian A – Melinda Myers
Several grasses go by the common name pampas grass. The one with the largest fluffiest flowers commonly seen in California and Southeastern United States is Cortaderia selloana. Other grasses such as Saccharum ravennae and some of the Miscanthus have fluffy flowers and seed heads that are not as showy as Cortaderia. Try a google image search to compare photos of the three grasses. Perhaps you have one of the other less showy grasses often referred to as pampas grass.
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