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 Gardening tips for all gardening zones
Keep your lawn healthy and reduce weeds through proper mowing.  Mow high and often, removing no more than 1/3 the total height at each cutting.  Make sure the blades are sharp and alternate mowing patterns to avoid excess compaction and wear.  Leave short clippings on the lawn adding moisture, nutrients and organic matter to the soil.

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Live Chat 3-18-2006

Question –  Jim: 

 

I met you once at Steins on S. 108th St. and you were so helpful answering my question about dealing with mold on my mother's Lilac bush.  Today, I am hoping that you could recommend a Blueberry Plant variety or two for her garden.  She is very partial to "sweet" flavors.  She so liked Stein's strawberry's named "Best" by French chefs that I replanted her patch with them last year.  I have heard of Blueberry varieties such as "Bluecrop", "Elliott" or "Duke", but not anything recommending the "sweetness" or "taste" of a variety. Can you possibly help me by making a recommendation?



Answer – Melinda Myers:


Blueberries can be an attractive and tasty addition to the home landscape.  They are a bit picky about their growing conditions  and hardiness is a concern on our side of Lake Michigan..  Provide blueberries with moist well-drained acidic soil.  You will need to help your mother prepare the planting site so she will have healthy productive plants.  You will probably need to order plants from a catalogue or on-line as most garden centers do not carry blueberry plants.  Northcountry is hardy and produces sweet berries in mid July.  Northblue are also hardy and have a very aromatic flavor while Northsky is more reminiscent of the wild blueberries.  All need pollinators (another plant) for fruit production.



Question - Russ:

I am looking for a hardy, fast growing, disease resistant Arborvitae type bush to screen my semi shaded lot line.
I have read about a "Thuja Green Giant" variety that seems to be a miracle bush and is hardy in Zones 5 to 8.
Do you think this variety, recommended by a South Carolia grower, would be a good choice in the Mequon, WI area?
Do you know of a source to purchase about ten of these about 4 foot tall?
Would you have any other suggestions?  Thanks for your help.

Answer – Melinda Myers:

 
 

This is a nice evergreen that has proven hardy in zone 5 and even in protected areas of 4b.  This fast growing evergreen is suppose to hold its color and be resistant to deer.  There is some debate on both these qualities.  This fast grower can reach 10 feet wide and 30 feet or more tall- so give it space to grow.   Spring Grove (some believe they are the same plant) is suppose to share the same qualities though some feel  it is shorter and has a better green winter color.  I would watch for deer damage but expect fewer problems with these.   Hemlocks are great evergreens for shaded locations.  They need protection from winter wind and sun and will need to be trimmed to keep them in bounds.




Question - Ray:

What do you think of Kelp as a fertilizer for grape vine? I’ve got 50 grape vines, St Pipen, St Croix and Foch. What 0-0-0 is best?

Answer – Melinda Myers:

 

Start with a soil test.  This will tell you exactly what type and how much fertilizers your grapes need.  Your local University Extension service can provide information on how and where to have your soil tested.  That lacking go with a low nitrogen slow release fertilizer like Milorganite.  Most urban soils have high to excess levels of phosphorous and potassium.  So before adding more make sure you need it.  Many books and pamphlets recommend 10-10-10 fertilizers.  The idea is to keep things in balance.  But most plants do not use these nutrients in equal amounts resulting in a build up of phosphorous and potassium in the soil.  So test first for best results.



Question - George from Chicago:


I live in a wooded area and I heard you recommend  using Golden Moneywort as a ground cover in shady areas.  Since it is in the creeping Charlie family is it not hard to control?  What about competition with other plants such as hostas, coral bells, bleeding hearts, etc?  We have over 50 varieties of hostas spread throughout the yard and would hate to lose them to a predatory plant.

Answer - Melinda Myers:

Golden moneywort is assertive but not as much as the green species and I find it relatively easy to keep in check. I have seen it used with other shade tolerant plants like hosta.  I find these and other shade tolerant plants seem to hold their own with this groundcover.  An occasional thinning keeps it in line.  Avoid using this plant along natural water ways in areas where it has been found to be invasive.




Question - Ramona from Waukesha:


I have a fairy ring in my front yard. It's always green and in the fall is a circle of mushrooms. What causes it and what's the best way to get rid of it?

Answer - Melinda Myers:

Fungus is the cause of these mushroom producing circles.  Living with the problem is the easiest solution.  Water during drought and fertilize to minimize the symptoms.  You may need to punch holes through the fungal mat that forms just below the soil surface to help the water reach the grass roots. Rake or mow to destroy the mushrooms as they form to improve the appearance and reduce the temptation to kids and pets.  The only permanent solution is to remove and replace the infected soil.  Carefully removing the soil 12 inches below and slightly wider than the ring being careful not to drop any infected soil on the lawn.

 
 

Question - Ray:

I have 50, 15 year old hybrid grape vines. What do you think about Kelp fertilizer or what do you recomend?



Answer - Melinda Myers:

Kelp is a great source of organic matter with minimal amounts of nitrogen potassium and phosphorous.  Adding this my help the overall condition of your soil but may not provide enough nutrients if your plants appear to be deficient.  Small pale leaves are one indication your plants may need to be fertilized.  If this is the case I would recommend a soil test.  This will tell you what type and how much fertilizer your grapes need. 




Question:

The first time in 30 years we had a problem with box elder bugs. They concentrate on the south side of the house. What causes or attracts them? How to eliminate them?
Thanx for the help.


Answer Melinda Myers:

Last summer’s hot dry weather was great for insects including box elder bugs.  They do not harm plants but can be a nuisance when they congregate on our homes or slip through a crack and make it indoors.  These insects feed on the seeds of boxelders (Acer negundo) and other maples (Acers).  In the fall they look for warm locations to warm themselves as well as a place to spend the winter.  They do not pose a threat to the health of our plants.  Treatment is only done to eliminate the nuisance.  Some gardeners vacuum any that find their way indoors.  Be sure to dispose of the bag.   A soapy water solution will kill any of these pests it contacts.  It does not have a residual which is good for the environment and all the good creatures in our landscapes.  This does mean you may need repeat applications.  Test the soapy water solution on your siding before washing the wall.  One gardener told me the south side of her house is one shade lighter due to the repeated yearly “cleaning” it receives as she washes away these insects.  If you opt for a more traditional pesticide be sure to read and follow all directions before treating. 

 
 

Question from Jean:

  I have a spruce tree that no longer has a single trunk. It looks like it split off into two main stems and has been this way for about a year. The other trees which were planted with it are growing straight and tall. What can I do to train it upwards again?

Answer Melinda Myers:

You may need to do a bit of tip pruning and training.  If it is just the tip of the trunk you can select the best looking of the two stems keeping it as the central leader while removing the other back to the point where the two divide.  If both stems are branched only on one side, long and bare you may need to cut back both stems leaving a bit of a stub.  Train one of the short side shoots to be the new leader.  Carefully bend it upward and loosely tie it to the stub.  Secure it with a stake if extra support is needed.  If the other side branches start growing upward you will need to prune these off to maintain a central leader.  In a year you should be able to remove the stake and you will have a new central leader.

 
 

Question - Cherie from Waukesha:

Yesterday I received three bareroot roses from a mail order nursery in IL.  They haven't broken dormancy that I can see and I left them in their packaging in my garage.  Will they be okay? Do I pot them up and bring them indoors?  I do have a fridge in the garage, should I put them in there with the soda and the beer?  I hate second guessing myself but I am relatively new at this.  Help with an answer for me? 

Answer Melinda Myers:


You have the right idea Cherie.  Keep the plants in a cool, non freezing, location until you can plant them in the ground.   An unheated garage or a spare refrigerator are good choices. Check the roots and moisten as needed.  You can plant dormant bare root plants in the landscape as soon as you can prepare the garden for planting.  If plants begin to grow while in transit or in storage they will need some extra care.  Move to a slightly cooler location to try to stop the process.  If growth continues pot up the plants and move them indoors to a cool sunny location.  Water thoroughly and whenever the top few inches of soil are crumbly and moist.  These can be planted outdoors after the danger of frost has passed.

 
 

Question - Diane from Pewaukee:

I have some Mesclun and Italian blend lettuce seeds that I am anxious to plant in my garden.  When is the earliest I can do this?  I understand that lettuces are cold weather crops.  Thank you so much for your direction!

Answer Melinda Myers:

 

Diane, you and other northern gardeners can begin planting lettuce, spinach, beets and radishes outdoors in mid April.  You can reduce the waiting time by using one of the floating row covers (sold as Grass Fast, Harvest Guard and ReeMay) to warm the soil and the air.  Prepare the soil, plant the seeds, water and cover with these polypropylene fabrics that let air, light and water through while trapping the heat around the plants.  Your extra effort will pay off with an earlier harvest. 

 
 

Question - Jerry from Hartford, WI:

We live on a drainage ditch  that has evolved into a creek where we have periwinkle creeping up the bank and invading the lawn and taking over the flower beds. What can we do about this pest? thank you

Answer Melinda Myers:

Some gardeners may be wondering what’s your secret to success, while others understand why this plant is considered invasive in some areas.  Jerry, have you tried edging the area between the periwinkle and your lawn may help slow the spread.  Killing the periwinkle on the bank may leave your creek bank subject to erosion.  Plus you need to be careful what products you use in wet areas.  There are a few new environmentally friendly products that use vinegar and clove oil to burn off the tops of plants.  They do this to any plant they touch – so use them carefully.  Repeat applications will be needed.  You may want to treat, leave the dead plant debris for bank stabilization and replant with native sedges that can take the wet soils.  These can be a bit assertive but are fairly easy to keep contained.





Question - Norman:

I have lots of white cedar shavings from lure making projects.  Can I use these as mulch in my flower gardens?

Answer Melinda Myers:

Wood shavings, chips and sawdust all temporarily tie up the nitrogen in the soil making it unavailable to the plants.  Once the micro organisms break down the wood products the nitrogen they used and more is released into the soil.  I prefer to use these products for paths or mulching established trees and shrubs.  These plants have an extensive root system that can usually tolerate the short term nitrogen deficiency.  If you use these products watch for signs of nitrogen deficiencies.  Stunted, yellow leaves and poor productivity are signs of nitrogen deficiencies.  Add a low nitrogen slow release nitrogen fertilizer to help plants showing signs of nutrient deficiency.





Question -  Dennis from Slinger:

When can I "trim" the incredibly tall summer bearing raspberries canes? They must already range in height from 4 -6 feet!

Answer - Melinda Myers:


Now is a good time to start pruning summer raspberries.Remove old canes that bore last year’s crop.Prune these to ground level.Now thin the planting to 4 to 5 canes per foot of row. Do minimal tip pruning. The more you remove the smaller the crop.   Take off no more than ½ the total height of the cane. Those with fall bearing raspberries can do one of two types of pruning. They can follow the recommendation above to have a fall and summer crop. Or cut the whole planting to ground level. This eliminates the summer crop but results in an earlier and larger fall harvest.





Question -  Cherie from Waukesha:

In your book, there's a mention of using Russian Sage as a vertical interest in containers. Can they stay in the containers throughout the winter, or do they need to be a) brought in or b) planted in ground before frost?

Answer - Melinda Myers:


Leaving perennials in above ground containers is always risky for northern gardeners. You have a couple of options. Plant your perennial container garden in an old nursery pot (the black kind trees and shrubs are grown in) that fits within the decorative container. In the fall lift the nursery pot out of the decorativfe container and sink it in a vacant area of the garden. Or move the container into an unheated garage for winter. Water thoroughly whenever the soil is thawed and dried. Or move the perennials into the garden in fall. Then start with new plants the following spring. Some gardeners buy smaller perennial plants and treat them like annuals. Recycle them in the compost pile if you are feeling a bit guilty.





Question - Cherie from Waukesha:

Yes Melinda, its me again. I hope you are not sick of me by May. iI have 16 russian sage coming in. Would oriental lilies be a good companion plant, maybe the dwarf variteis or should I really go with something else? Thanks for any and all your knowledge you share with us.

Answer - Melinda Myers:


No worries Cheri, always glad to help a fellow gardener. Lilies would be a nice partner for the Russian Sage. If you are growing the straight species of Russian sage it can be 5 or 6 feet tall. Tall lilies can be equal in height or taller. Check the height listed in the catalogue or on the tags. Dwarf just means shorter than the straight species so a dwarf lily may still be 4 or more feet tall. You might want to add a few more plants for added interest. Blue willow amsonia is a nice plant. Blue flowers, narrow leaves and yellow fall color. It would liook nice in front of the lilies. A few peonies or shrub roses could add to the spring interest. Add a mildew reistant garden phlox like David or Kathryn or Eva Callum for additional summer bloom. I like to visit botanical gardens throughout the season to get ideas for my garden and others. These are good places for evaluating what you like and how it would fit into your landscape. Hope this helps.





 

 

 


 





 
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