|
Q - Sara Sager Lehner of Kewaskum, WI
Hi I am pretty sure that some of my tomato plants have pith necrosis. I first thought they were cankers but with a little more research, seems to look more like pith. Nothing wrong with the leaf, it is all on the stem and looks like scabs! What can you tell me about it and what is the treatment, I have read about two different treatments...one is the plant will outgrow it and the other is to remove the plant or it will spread. Help! My thanks! A – Melinda Myers
I think I have good news for you. If your plants look healthy other than the “scabs” on the stem I do not think you have pith necrosis. That disease is more of a problem in warm climates. I could only find reports of this disease in greenhouse labs. The symptoms include black streaking on the stem, chambered pith (inside the stem) and wilting. The scabs on your tomatoes’ stems are probably normal swellings that have the potential to form adventitious roots. If the plants look normal other than the scabs I would not worry. Plus as you discovered the plants usually outgrow the disease. Check out http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-0797/ . It has some good pictures and great descriptions of common tomato wilt diseases.
Q - Elizabeth Hamilton of Unionville, IN
How do you harvest the seeds in a holly hock plant? Also, I have heard that holly hocks only come back from the root but have read an article recently that the seeds can be dried and then planted in the spring or fall. Thank you! A – Melinda Myers
Hollyhocks are classified as a biennial or short lived perennial. The seeds sprout and only a short rosette of leaves appear. The second season the plant grows tall and flowers. Sometimes the plant will survive but more often the seeds fall to the ground and the process starts over. Some gardeners plants seeds or plants two years in a row to have flowers every season. I find the plants make this happen on their own. You can collect hollyhock seeds and do some planting of your own. Wait for the seed pods to dry. Break apart the pods, separate the seeds and plant in a well prepared garden area. Water in the seeds and wait for nature to do the rest. Or collect the seeds, store in a cool dark place for winter and plant in containers like other transplants next spring. Move transplants outdoors after the danger of frost.
Q -
I bought a burning bush last summer, it has not grown much. I have a rabbit problem and cannot put a fence around the bush. I spray Deer Off on the bush because the rabbits chew on it, the product says it is for rabbits, problem is they like it. This product is cayenne pepper base. Could you please help me out, I bought the burning bush for its beauty and nothing has grown due to the rabbits. What do you suggest? A – Melinda Myers
Rabbits seem to be doing quite well this season. Repellents are most effective when applied before the animals start feeding. It is easier to keep them away than break a habit. Plus with large populations of hungry animals they will eat anything. Try varying your repellents. Human or cat hair, slivers of highly scented deodorant soap or votive candles or commercial products may work. Then consider scare tactics. Clanging pans, whirley gigs and other noise makers may help scare the rabbits. Apply or replace repellents as needed and vary your scare tactics to increase success. And if you can surround the plant with a 4 foot high piece of hardware cloth (tight to the ground) you will have the best success keeping the rabbits away. Good luck!
Q - Bob of Wisconsin
The question I have is about this darn weed I have all over the yard. It is very prolific! The stem is very tough and stalky and it can grow 12-18inches. The leaves are thin and about 1 inch long and set about an inch apart on the stem. At the top are little white flowers about 1/4 to 1/2 inch across..they have 8 petals on them and look somewhat like phlox. Our soil is somewhat sandy.
I can cut them off with the lawnmower once a week and by the next week the flowers are back.
Do you have any idea what this is? And, how do I get rid of it..will Scotts turf builder plus 2 work? Thanks, A – Melinda Myers
The hot dry summer of the last few years have really helped the weeds take over. Team this with your sandy soil and you have the perfect environment for weeds like yours. Known commonly as campion and botanically known as Silene, this weed is found throughout much of the US and southern Canada. These weeds can act like annuals, biennials or short lived perennials and most often reproduce by seed. Pulling is the only non chemical way to eliminate the existing plants in lawns and gardens. Be sure to remove all the pieces since this weed can regrow from pieces of roots and stems. Mulch garden areas to reduce the number of these and other weed seeds from sprouting. If you choose to use a broadleaf weedkiller in the lawn, spot treat in fall or spring to minimize use of the chemical. A pre emergent in spring may help reduce the number of seeds that sprout. Be sure to read and follow all label directions carefully. Keep your lawn strong and vigorous with proper watering, fertilization and mowing. A healthy lawn is your best defense against weeds.
Q -Mike Causey of Columbia, SC
I have a gardenia that I am concerned about. It has started producing a large number of buds and subsequently a large number of flowers. However, a fair number of the buds fall off before they bloom. I have it in a large flower pot outside where it receives morning sun. Can you tell me what might be causing it to drop the buds? Thanks. A – Melinda Myers
Gardenias, as you have found, can be challenging. High temperature, low humidity and dry soil are the biggest causes of bud drop. Make sure you keep the soil evenly moist. Check the container twice a day in extremely hot weather and once a day otherwise. Water thoroughly whenever the top few inches of the soil are slightly moist. A little mulch over the soil surface will help keep the roots cool and soil evenly moist. You can’t control the temperature but plant placement certainly helps. An east exposure, like you have, is great. Your plant receives the morning light and protection from the hot afternoon sun. Outside the humidity should be fine. Those growing plants indoors may need to place their gardenias with other plants and on a gravel tray to increase humidity. Simply place a few stone in a plant saucer. Fill the saucer with water and set the pot on the pebbles above the water. As the water evaporates it increases the humidity around the plant.
Q - Mary of Cedarburg, WI
My tomato plants have spots and are turning yellow. What can I do to correct this problem? A – Melinda Myers
Septoria leaf spot is the most common problem. It starts at the base of the plant. Brown spots develop, the leaves yellow and eventually drop off. The disease continues to spread up the stem. By the end of the season you still have tomatoes but the leafless plant looks pretty pathetic. Unfortunately there are no septoria leaf spot resistant varieties. Reduce the problem by growing your tomatoes in a different spot every season. Mulch the soil to reduce infection from this and other diseases. Stake or tower your plants to increase airflow and light penetration and reduce disease problems. If this doesn’t work you can either live with the problem – the tomatoes are safe to eat – or treat with a fungicide labeled for controlling this disease on tomatoes. Apply at the first sign of the disease and repeat throughout the season. And as always read and follow label directions including the time required to wait between last application and harvest.
Q -
My lilac is having problems. There are holes along the edges of the leaves that look like someone went through with a hole punch, they're all nearly perfect. I didn't see any little critters. Any clue? A – Melinda Myers
A helpful native pollinator is the culprit. Leaf cutter bees, essential for pollination of some of our native plants, remove pieces of the leaf to use in creating their nest. You most often see their damage on roses, occasionally on lilacs, green ash and Virginia creeper. The bees live in rotted wood and center of pithy plants like roses. Since they restrict their nesting to dead wood and just the pith of the roses they do not harm the health and vigor of our plants. So relax and enjoy the creative artwork.
Q - Donna of Fond du Lac, WI
I have sent this question in 2 times and have either not received an answer or I have overlooked it at your site. I have pyramidal arborvitaes with one space where the telephone poles is. My question is this, is there something I can treat the soil with to neutralize the creosote used on the telephone that may have leached into the soil? I would like to plant another one to fill in this gap. A – Melinda Myers
Thanks for your patience. The response to Ask Melinda has been overwhelming and I am working hard to catch up. I am unaware of anything that will neutralize creosote. I found freshly treated materials caused the worst plant damage when the creosote volatilized in hot weather. It may be just a coincidence that the arborvitae next to the pole are not doing well. Check out all the growing conditions (water, light and such) to make sure there isn’t another factor involved. Otherwise you may need to get creative and try another plant in this area. See what is growing in and around telephone poles in your area. Consider adding some ornamental grasses that combine nicely with arborvitae. Try mixing these in with the planting to add seasonal interest and fill the void caused by the dead arborvitae.
|
