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Q - Arlene of Greenfield
What do you know about the new pre-emergent product for crabgrass where you can also plant seed right away? Have checked the web and it may come from Preen. Let me know. Arlene
A – Melinda Myers
Preen has greatly expanded their product line. Next time you reach for Preen be sure to read the label before purchasing and using. They now carry a total vegetation killer, broadleaf weed killer, corn gluten based pre-emergent and this new product call New Lawn Crabgrass Preventer plus Seed Starter Fertilizer. The active ingredient in this crabgrass pre-emergent is one professionals have used for years. This particular pre-emergent’s active ingredient is effective at preventing crabgrass seed from emerging while not interfering with lawn grass seed germination. This product can be applied right after seeding. Be sure to read and follow label directions carefully.
Q - Cherie of Waukesha
Is it too early to plant the lily bulbs I guess. Plants are starting to come in that I have ordered. Are there any that can be planted now? I've got 2 blue hostas 2 ferns 11 lily of the valley and 6 columbines in and I don't know where to go with them all. Can any of these go in this week?
A – Melinda Myers
Let the outdoor gardens be your guide. Dormant plants can be moved outdoors as soon as they arrive. Those that started growing in transit or at the garden center need a little special care. Their tender growth can be damaged if the temperatures plummet below freezing. You can pot up tender plants and grow them indoors in a sunny window or under artificial lights. They can safely be moved outdoors after the danger of frost has passed. Or gradually introduce them to the outdoors providing protection from freezing temperatures. I use season extending fabrics to help me with this transition. Sold as Harvest Gard, Grass Fast or ReeMay these spun fabrics let air light and water through while trapping the heat around the plant. I place my plants in a protected location, cover with the fabric and have good success getting them through this transitional period.
Q – Amy of West Allis
Hi Melinda. I would like to move the location of my vegetable garden. Its current location does not get enough sun as it sits directly between mine and the neighbor's garages. The problem is that my yard is very small and in the summer I have a 15' swimming pool set up in the middle of the yard. How far away should my vegetable garden be from the pool? Is 5-6' feet far enough? Thanks.
A – Melinda Myers
The chemicals used to treat swimming pool water can be harmful to our natural water ways and plants. Avoid emptying your pool water onto the garden. The small amount of water reaching the garden from occasional splashing should not be a problem. Consider adding a decorative fence to keep swimmers and splashing water out of the garden.
Q - Paul and Sharon of Brookfield
We used the Bayer product for Tree and Shrub (viburnum borers) and had some success last year. When might be a good date to apply it this year? Thank you so much for all your help over the years!
A – Melinda Myers
I double checked the label and did not find that Bayer Advanced tree and shrub insect control is labeled for use on clearwing borers such as the viburnum borer. I can not recommend the use of this product
Q - Cherie Coogan of Waukesha
HELP!!! I had brought my miniature rose in from the garage because it started growing. I put it in a south window. It was doing soooooooo good. This morning something didn't look quite right by my plants and upon inspection my rose is wilting? One whole cane is bending over and soft and droopy. What happened? Its been in the house since the end of February. I'm so sad... Any ideas Melinda??
A – Melinda Myers
Don’t panic. Double check the watering. Make sure the plant is watered thoroughly and the excess poured off. Or easier yet, place pebbles in the saucer. The water will collect in the pebbles and the pot will rest upon the pebbles above the water. If this doesn’t correct the problem, check for physical or winter damage and disease that can damage the stem. The damaged stem is unable to transport water throughout the plant resulting in wilting. Check for cankers, sunken or discolored areas, or other signs of damage to the stems. Prune several inches beneath the canker and discard the stem. Disinfect your pruner with a one part bleach and 9 part water solution or rubbing alcohol before making another pruning cut.
Q – Charlotte of Wautoma
What is the best way to combat weeds in my asparagus bed?
A – Melinda Myers
Weeds, as you have found Charlotte, are one of the major pests of asparagus. Pulling is the most environmentally friendly but often not practical means of controlling the weeds. Mulching will help reduce the annual weed population. A 2 inch layer of shredded leaves or woodchips block the sunlight reducing weed seed sprouting. Spot treating quackgrass, bindweed and other perennial weeds with Roundup or Finale is an option for these difficult weeds. Wipe or paint the total weed killer onto the leaves of the weed being careful not to hit the asparagus shoots or other nearby desirable plants.
Q – Samuel of Milwaukee
My grass is so lumpy that it is hard to walk on it. Would it be OK to roll it flat. When the guys cut the grass, some of it is longer and some too short. I have soooooo many bald spots that I thought of getting some dirt and filling in the holes. You diagnosed it as bent grass. I was hoping that rolling it would save me some work with the same results. I have the seed, the special mix from Steins with the crystals, and would like to seed it this spring. When is a good time?
A – Melinda Myers
Sorry to tell you but rolling the lawn is not a good idea. It will further compact the soil making it harder to walk on and more difficult to grow a healthy lawn. Core aerating the lawn and then topdressing (spreading a thin layer of topsoil or compost over the soil surface) can help improve the lawn. Then fill the low spots with a blended topsoil to even out the surface. Sprinkle grass seed over low spots where the lawn was totally buried with topsoil.
Q – Jennifer of Milwaukee
When should I cut back my roses?
A – Melinda Myers
We can remove winter protection and start pruning roses as soon as the temperatures start hovering at or above freezing. Take advantage of the nice weather and get outside and start pruning. Remove older, damaged or disease canes on shrub roses. Only prune out winter damaged tips of the remaining stems or shorten stems to control the overall plant size. Hybrid tea roses need a bit more pruning. Remove any winter damaged canes. Healthy canes have a white center while dead ones are brown. Pruen dead canes at least one inch below dead tissue, back to a healthy branch or above a healthy outward facing bud. Remove any spindly stems, weak growth and crossing branches. In cold areas like Wisconsin, hybrid tea roses end up about 16 to 18 inches tall with 5 or 6 healthy stems.
Q -
I am going to be receiving some blueberry plants from a catalog this spring and I am wondering if I will need more than just 1 variety of plants in order to cross pollinate and have the plants bear fruit. I have read about the soil conditions and so forth but I have not seen any real definite answers to this question. Could you please offer some advice?
A – Melinda Myers
Many blueberries are self fruitful, meaning they do not need two different plants to produce fruit. Some of the self fruitful types produce a larger harvest when planted with another variety. Check the variety you are growing to make sure it is self fruitful. Most catalogues will recommend ordering two different varieties when pollinators are needed.
Q – Jason
I took the opportunity to put down Vigoro Pre-emergent crabgrass control Plus Fertilizer on two weeks ago on Sunday. The instructions said that you need to wait six weeks before doing any overseeding, or applying any grass seed (which I need to in some areas of my lawn), so I wanted to get it down as early as possible. Additionally, I knew it was supposed to rain on Sunday (although I didn't know how hard), and figured I wouldn't have to worry about watering it in. So I have two questions. 1) Did I put it down to early? 2) Did the amount of rain we had in the Milwaukee area on Sunday wash it all away?
A – Melinda Myers
I can appreciate your dilemma Jason. Last year’s drought was hard on our lawns and great for weeds like crabgrass. Many gardeners need to control the weeds and reseed bare areas. We usually wait until the soil temperatures are 55 to apply crabgrass pre-emergent. This way we get the product down just prior to the crabgrass seed germinating but we also get the longest period of control. You see crabgrass seed continues to germinate throughout the spring. Early applications do not provide control of the late sprouting seed. The heavy rain should not have been a problem. I would not do another application this spring. Wait the recommended period before seeding your lawn. Then keep the grass tall and water thoroughly and as needed for a healthier lawn that is better able to crowd out crabgrass. If crabgrass is still a problem next spring you may want to try one of the new products like the Preen New lawn Crabgrass Preventer and Seed starter fertilizer. It allows you to treat for crabgrass after seeding the lawn.
Q - Jackie of Hartland
I hope you can help me figure out what is happening to my Black Eyed Susans. Each year, for the past few years, the flowers come up looking beautiful, but soon start turning black, shriveled, and ugly. Black spots appear on the leaves, and it spreads from plant to plant. None of the other plants in my garden are affected. Each year it seems to be getting worse. I have friends who are experiencing the same problem with their Susans. I live in Hartland, Wi., and it has been very dry and hot the last few summers, but I keep the plants watered. I would appreciate any help you could give me.
A – Melinda Myers
Several leaf spots diseases are causing the symptoms you described. You like many gardeners are finding the once low maintenance Black-eyed-Susan (Rudbeckia) to be a disease ridden plant. The first step in controlling this disease is fall cleanup. Make sure to remove and destroy disease infested foliage. Thin plantings for improved air circulation and avoid overhead watering that can spread disease. Several fungal leaf spot disease cause irregular black spots on the leaves and stems of Rudbeckia. If cultural means (sanitation, thinning and proper watering) don’t stop the problem you may decide to use chlorothalonil or a copper fungicide. Apply in early June before the symptoms appear. Angular leaf spot, caused by a bacteria, looks very similar. The same cultural recommendations apply to this disease. Applications of a copper based bactericide like Bordeaux will help reduce the risk of this disease. Make the first application in spring and repeat as advised on the label. See the University of Minnesota Extension fact sheet at http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/p154rudbeckiadisease.html for pictures and more details on these and other problems with Rudbeckia.
Q - Diane Mahan of Hot Springs
My pecan tree's bark is falling off in great slabs only on the south side of the trunk and the underside of the bark as well as the bare trunk is a clay red color with some powdery residue and a charcoal chalk like streak on the trunk where the bark has pulled away. I have been mulching with recycle mulch from our city waste resource. Can you help me please?
A – Melinda Myers
Are the leaves full sized and the tree appear in good health otherwise? If so the problem may be smooth patch. This fungus only attacks the dead tissue of the bark causing it to fall off and expose the inner bark. Though it looks bad to us it is not harmful to the overall health of the tree. Have a certified arborist check it out just to be certain. Continue mulching your trees and shrubs. It is a great way to improve the environment around our trees and shrubs. Be sure to keep the mulch away from the trunk of the trees and the crowns of your shrubs. Mulch piled on the trunk can lead to rot, decline and other problems that can shorten the life of our trees.
Q - Janice
Hi Melinda. I have morning glory weed that not only has invaded my entire flower garden that goes all the way down our driveway, but all over our front yard. Can you please help us? Our neighbor has a gorgeous yard of flowers (over 8,500 tulips and over 7,000 daffodils and a 100's, no kidding, of other flowers) and we are extremely worried that it will creep over there. We tried some kind of weed killer last year which seemed, at first, to do the trick but weeks later it started up again. Any information would be GREATLY appreciated! Thank you in advance.
A – Melinda Myers
This morning glory weed is commonly called bindweed. This deeply rooted weed is difficult to control and has thrived in our recent dry weather. In the flower beds you can try spot treating this weed with a total vegetation killer like Roundup or Finale. Be careful not to get any of this product on your good plants since it can kill them too. Protect your garden plants with a homemade movable shield made from an old milk jug. Remove the bottom of the jug and set it over the weed. Spray the total vegetation killer through the opening and onto the weed. Once the weed leaves are somewhat dry move the cover to the next weed and repeat. This keeps the vegetation killer on the weed and off your desirable plants. Or paint the Roundup or Finale on the bindweed leaves. Repeated applications will be needed to kill these deeply rooted weeds. In the lawn, you can use a weed killer labeled to control bindweed in lawn areas. Some gardeners will paint the bindweed leaves with a total vegetation killer, avoiding the grass blades, to kill the weed without killing the grass. Persistence is needed to get this weed out of the landscape.
Q – Orlando of Milwaukee
I met you at the Stein Gardens and always enjoy your shows and programs. I have a question regard fertilizing Citrus plants, what would you recommend. Also I am waiting for a cherry tree plant to be shipped to me. What kind of soil should I be using to plant it? I have a peach tree that has a problem. Right after the blossom, the leaves start to curl and eventually all fall off and any fruit on the tree also fall out. What can it be wrong with it, what can I do to help it?
A – Melinda Myers
Try using a slow release fertilizer for your citrus tree this spring. It will provide small amounts of nutrients every time you water throughout the growing season. Look for a complete fertilizer with an analysis of 16-16-16, 20-20-20 or something similar. As for the cherry tree, will you be planting it in the ground or in a container? Research has found it is better to plant trees in the existing soil than to highly amend the planting hole. The tree roots fail to leave the highly amended planting hole and end up girdling (choking) the tree as it grows and matures. Use a container mix if growing the cherry tree in a pot. You will need bury the pot or move it into an unheated garage for winter. Now for your peach tree… Several diseases can cause the symptoms you describe. A disease called peach leaf curl causes leaves to curl and drop prematurely. Severe infestations can also affect the fruit. This fungal disease overwinters on the twigs and buds and is a problem when we have cool wet springs. You may opt for a fungicide treatment if the tree is affected each year and appears less vigorous than normal. A single application of a fungicide before growth begins in spring will control this disease. Plum pockets and brown rot can also affect fruit development. The single fungicide application will also control plum pockets. Sanitation and a drier spring is often all that is needed to control brown rot. Remove brown shriveled fruit and rake and destroy all fallen fruit. If you opt for a chemical control, make the first application when the buds are swollen and two more times at 10 day intervals. Do not use a home orchard spray that contains insecticides that can harm honeybees and interfere with fruit set.
Q - Ken
We bought a rhododendron from "Steins" last year. We covered it over winter with a cardboard fabric rose cone and had leaf mulch covered around the plant. I took the rose cone off Saturday and the leaves were falling off and the buds looked dead. If I cut back the bush, will it come back this summer? Or normally do you leave it in a pot and bring it in-doors over the winter?
A – Melinda Myers
Rhododendrons do best in a sheltered location like the east side of a building. They need protection form the winter wind and winter sun. A burlap screen or cylinder of hardware cloth filled with evergreen boughs can provide added insulation. A rose cone may get too warm and damage the overwintering plant. At this point I would wait and see what happens. Once new growth begins, and we are thinking positively, prune off the dead wood. Don’t be overly anxious to pull it out of the ground. It may re-sprout from the roots. Be patient. Be sure the plant is watered thoroughly and often enough to keep the roots moist but not overly wet. Do not fertilize. Allow the plant time to recover. Next spring you can use a low nitrogen slow release fertilizer if you feel the plant needs a nutrient boost.
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