Hyacinths can be controlled, but not guaranteed Posted: Jan. 28, 2006Q. My daughter is getting married on May 13 and would love to use hyacinths planted in decorated clay pots on the dinner tables. Since cost is an issue, I was wondering if there is a safe time to start bulbs in the house to be ready for a May 13 wedding.
A. Hyacinths like other spring flowering bulbs need a cold period to initiate flowering. Prepared bulbs need 10 weeks and regular bulbs need 13 weeks of cool temperatures of 40 to 48 degrees. Fortunately, more garden centers are carrying pre-cooled bulbs These bulbs just need to be planted, the soil watered when slightly dry and given four to six weeks to bloom. Timing is always a challenge. As the wedding date approaches, you can hasten flowering by moving plants to a slightly warmer location or delay bloom by keeping plants in a cool location. An affordable and attractive alternative would be pansies. Readily available in the spring, they provide lots of color options and many are fragrant. These combine nicely with hyacinths so you can use both if everything works as planned.
Q. I have had "Nearly Wild" rose bushes for five years that are scraggly and I wonder if I could trim them now. How about trees? A. I like late winter or early spring for pruning. The plants are bare so it is easy to see the branches, overall shape, and prune as needed. Plus, the plants will soon begin to grow and close over the pruning cuts. Waiting a bit longer allows you to prune out winter damage at the same time you shape the plants. But there is no problem pruning now. Be aware that some trees like maples, birch and black walnut can be messy when pruned in winter when the sap is running. Not to worry; it is not harmful to the trees. Q. Every winter I bring my Christmas cactus in from my three-season porch. It does great outside but as soon as it moves indoors it starts dropping stems. I live in a log cabin and have only had luck keeping a few plants alive. Please help. A. The transition from the great growing conditions outdoors to the lower light, lower humidity and usually poor growing conditions inside is difficult. Place your cactus in the sunniest window you have. Or supplement natural daylight with artificial light. Water the plants thoroughly, allowing them to dry slightly before watering again. Pour off any excess water that collects in the saucer. Wait to fertilize. Once the plant stops losing stems, new growth appears and the plant needs a nutrient boost, it is safe to give it a dilute solution of a flowering plant fertilizer. Q. I recently heard you speak, and you showed a picture of a large silvery-leafed salvia. In fact you said it looked like lamb's ear on steroids. What is the name and will it grow here? A. It was silver sage known botanically as Salvia argentea. I have had a plant growing in my Milwaukee garden for more than 10 years and also have seen it thriving in a garden just north of the Twin Cities in Minnesota. This salvia is grown for the large fuzzy silvery-gray foliage - not the flowers. Some gardeners allow the plant to flower and reseed while others remove the flowers to keep the plant looking its best. Grow this salvia in full sun and well-drained soil. I find it makes a bold accent to fine textured plants like ornamental grasses, and the silvery foliage combines nicely with the glossy green leaves and flowers of shrub roses.
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